Music

EPSTM, brought to you by Energy Trust of Oregon, is a voluntary rating that can be requested by builders or homebuyers during the construction phase, and is currently available on a variety of newly built homes throughout Oregon. In order to qualify for an EPS, trade allies must follow specific requirements for certain equipment installations.

The EPS Field Guide is a resource for builders and subcontractors that provides more information on the topics in this training. It’s a valuable resource for achieving program requirements and building best practices.

You can download the EPS Field Guide from Energy Trust’s website, or request a hard copy by contacting your verifier or the New Homes team.

Click the training of your choice to begin.

Once complete, you can always return to review the content of any training segment at any time.

Zonal pressure relief is necessary in homes with ducted heating systems. Closing bedroom doors can restrict air movement between supply and return registers, causing pressure imbalances in homes. This has been proven to increase house air leakage and can negatively affect occupant comfort.

Properly designed duct systems will include return air pathways between all supply and return duct registers.

Bedrooms with multiple supplies need either a jumper duct, transfer grill, dedicated return or ERV/HRV duct.

Bedrooms with one supply, and without a return, may be undercut to allow pressure relief.

Click each type of return to learn more before continuing.

Like other ductwork, seal jumper ducts at all joints and boot connections on both sides of the doorway using water-based UL-181 mastic paste. Attach flexible jumper ducts at the inner liner using nylon, plastic, or Panduit straps tightened with a manufacturer approved tool.

Insulate jumper ducts outside the conditioned space. Mechanically fasten duct insulation with straps.

A local return to the main trunk or HRV/ERV duct is the best option, if possible.

A 1” minimum door undercut may be used to provide pressure relief in rooms with only one supply register and without a return.

The transfer grill simply has two grills, one on each side of a wall, located between the room and common space with offset baffles to limit sound and light transmission. Transfer grills are most often installed over doors.

For high/low transfer grills, one grill is located at the top of the wall on the inside of the room, and one grill is located at the bottom of the wall outside of the room. The offset reduces sound and light transmission. Glue drywall to studs and plates on both sides of any stud bay used for high/low transfer grills.

Losses in R-Value can occur throughout the home, when insulation is poorly installed. Quality installation results in less heat loss, lower heating bills, improved occupant comfort and an improved EPS.

One way to help achieve insulation quality is to think of a six-sided box.

Start with a floor assembly to support the bottom of the box.

Studs form two sides of the box, framing the left and right sides.

Top and bottom plates form another two sides, completing the frame.

Exterior sheathing creates the fifth side of the box.

Each cavity needs to be sealed and completely filled with insulation.

Then the sixth side is the dry wall or other interior finish. There should be no gaps, voids, misalignment, or compression between the insulation and any of the sides. Grade 1 insulation will help meet these goals.

This is a good example of a Blow in Blanket System®, commonly called BIBS. When installed properly, the blown-in insulation will completely fill the wall cavity without gaps, voids, misalignment, or compression

Here insulation is misaligned, it is not properly cut and fit around the electrical box and wiring and it is not in full contact with all six sides of the box. These problems will reduce the performance of the wall assembly.

In order to pass inspection, insulation should be cut to fit and placed around electrical boxes, wiring, plumbing pipes and mechanical equipment in wall cavities, floor and rafter bays and attic spaces. To complete the thermal barrier, insulation needs to be in contact with the appropriate air barrier. This allows wall assemblies to achieve full R-Value.

Depending on the amount of compression, the R-Value can decrease by 50 percent or more.

Insulation can become compressed by electrical wires or plumbing. This prevents full contact with the air barrier and reduces the R-Value. You can avoid compression by cutting insulation to fit around obstacles such as wiring and plumbing or cutting notches for electrical wires in the bottom of the studs.

Here is an example of compressed insulation regularly seen at rim-joists and cantilevers. You can see that it does not fill the whole space, is compressed on the left side, and is not cut and fit around the wiring.

This fiberglass batt has been split down the middle so that it can be installed around the wiring and still insulate the entire cavity.

The insulation will not be compressed, and will be in complete contact with not only the sheetrock, but all six sides of the assembly allowing it to achieve its full R-Value potential.

Floor insulation needs to be in contact with the sub floor above, whether it’s a bonus room floor, crawl space or cantilever. Use staves, string, strapping or other rigid material to secure insulation.

Over garages and exterior areas, such as cantilevers, a full air barrier is needed on the underside of the floor system. This is a good example of a cantilevered floor, but you’ll notice that an air barrier is missing and insulation is missing or compressed in various locations.

Open web joists above unconditioned spaces need specific attention. It is very difficult to fill the entire cavity if batt insulation is used. Spray-applied or loose-fill insulation is more effective in the floor.

The best way to install insulation with open web joists is to attach netting to the bottom of the joists to hold the insulation in place. Insulation needs to completely fill the cavity so that it is in full contact with the sub-floor above to achieve the appropriate R-Value.

Skylights need specific attention as well. In the field, skylights are often not framed for adequate insulation and don’t have a durable/rigid material on the attic side. This is avoidable if you plan ahead, frame for full insulation depth and stay in sequence. Skylights are just like knee walls when it comes to insulating. They need to be fully insulated six-sided boxes.

When it comes to insulating ceiling perimeters, a standard-heel truss limits the available space for insulation at the roof edges. A raised-heel truss that is the proper height accommodates full insulation values for the ceiling. In this video, a raised-heel truss in the main room transitions to a standard-heel truss in the kitchen. Remember to install all insulation to manufacturer’s specifications.

An energy-efficient home needs an efficient heating source and distribution system. Without proper sealing and insulation, up to 20 percent of the heat distributed through a ducted heating system can be lost to the surrounding space through leaks or conducted through insulation.

Leaky duct work lowers the heating and cooling efficiency of the HVAC system, reduces comfort, and increases the homeowner's energy costs.

When ducts leak, it creates a pressure imbalance that can potentially draw in contaminants which are then distributed throughout the house. This is important because ducts are often located in unconditioned attics, crawl spaces and basements.

Over time, conventional duct tape, aluminum tape, or even mastic tape will dry, crack, and eventually give way to air leaks. Mastic paste, on the other hand, creates a more permanent, durable seal that has been proven to last up to 100 years. Duct mastic is a product designed specifically for duct work, and is rated for heat, durability and the pressure of airflow through ducts.

Seal all seams, joints (including elbows) and connections by applying water-based UL-181 mastic. Use mastic paste from a caulking tube to improve appearance and performance at the air handler cabinets.

Make sure the joint area has been wiped clean to remove particles of dust before applying mastic. If the joint isn't clean, the mastic won't create a tight seal.

Mechanically fasten duct seams before sealing. This includes hard ducts, flex-to-flex and flex-to-hard duct connections and transitions. Seal inside sleeves of flexible ducts using Panduit straps and a manufacturer-approved tensioning tool.

Use mesh tape to reinforce mastic coating on areas where there's a gap of ¼ inch or more. This is especially important if the area being sealed is a joint that will be under stress. Completely cover the tape with mastic paste.

Mastic is spread over the duct seams with a disposable paintbrush, putty knife or fingers. If you spread mastic with your fingers, wear gloves.

Apply enough mastic to form a continuous coating on the surface of the duct. Work the mastic into the joint or crack and press lightly to get an even coating.

Mastic needs to be about a "nickel" thick in order to be effective.

When mastic isn't applied thick enough, it can't withstand duct movement from air pressure and the duct will leak.

Remember that insulation does not stop air leaks. Ducts need to be sealed with mastic before insulation is installed.

Pay special attention to connections at the plenum, including start collars and behind air handler cabinets. Make sure to seal:

• Supply takeoff at plenum

• All field joints

• Seams in register boot

• Boot to the floor or ceiling

Mastic paste is not necessary on blower cabinet service panels that are intended to be removed for unit service.

Problems associated with leaky ducts can be reduced or eliminated by bringing the ducts inside the conditioned space. This greatly improves the efficiency of the distribution system because far less heat is lost.

Assure proper sealing of exterior air barriers near duct runs. Install solid air barrier between duct runs and fibrous insulation.

Ducts in joists between conditioned and unconditioned spaces are not considered to be in the conditioned space unless properly air sealed and insulated.

Sealing ducts with mastic is still needed if the ducts are in a conditioned space; it ensures that air is being delivered to the desired locations within a home.

Leaks are often inaccessible after insulation and drywall are installed. Plan to seal ducts during installation—and before insulation—to prevent difficult and expensive repairs later.

After ducts are installed, sealed and insulated, a duct blaster test can measure duct performance and test for leakage.

Tightly sealed and well-insulated ducts keep occupants more comfortable and increase the overall energy efficiency, safety and durability of the home. Proper duct sealing also improves indoor air quality by reducing the risk of dust, moisture, and contaminants from entering the home.

During the design phase, developing plans that include air sealing details and clearly indicate the thermal boundary will help avoid costly mistakes and reduce mechanical loads.

To achieve an effective thermal enclosure, it's important to engage all trades involved in the project to identify areas requiring special attention to air sealing, framing practices and insulation installation.

In addition to increased heating and cooling costs, uncontrolled air leakage can cause occupant discomfort. Pay careful attention to sealing any penetrations in the building envelope. Air leakage can occur at locations between conditioned and unconditioned spaces where incomplete air barriers exist or at unsealed connections between air-barrier materials.

An air barrier is defined as any durable, rigid, solid material that blocks air flow between conditioned space and unconditioned space. Air-barrier materials consist of rigid materials (plywood, oriented strand board, gypsum wall board or lumber) or semi-rigid materials (sheet metal, foam board or treated cardboard) that don’t allow air to flow through. Fibrous insulation and housewrap allow air to flow through them and don’t qualify as air barriers.

Air-sealing materials such as spray foam, caulk and drywall adhesives can be used to reduce air leakage at seams and transitions between air barrier materials. Do not use construction adhesive.

Tubs and showers are often installed after framing and before insulation is in place, which creates thermal bypasses at exterior walls. A rigid air barrier is needed between the tub and the framing, with insulation correctly installed behind it.

Pay close attention to compression, gaps, and voids in insulation at this location. Effective air barriers and insulation behind tubs and showers at exterior walls can be achieved with proper planning. The easiest way to avoid the complications of air sealing and insulating behind tubs and showers is to design and install them on interior walls.

Air barriers are also needed on exterior walls behind fireplaces. The air barrier needs to be fully aligned with the framing with all gaps and seams sealed. Installing air barriers and rigid insulation behind tubs, showers and fireplaces is less complicated to do before they’re installed.

Plan ahead to incorporate these important details, and be sure to completely fill the cavity with insulation.

To prevent air leakage, provide a rigid air barrier at the knee wall with sheathing or rigid insulation on the attic side. Here the knee wall is constructed as a “six-sided assembly,” with air barriers on all sides of the insulation, including top and bottom plates and blocking at floor framing.

This animation provides one example of how to insulate a knee wall between spaces with different ceiling heights and begins with two rooms framed. There’s 24” on center framing for reduced thermal bridging.

· Install trusses according to building plans. Place rigid insulation in the transition truss.

In this example, using 1.5” thick foil-faced polyisocyanurate insulation between webbing in the transition truss is an effective choice.

· Install a second layer of insulation over the transition truss to meet the needed R-Value and to act as an insulation dam.

· Install sheetrock on walls and ceiling.

· Add insulation in both attic areas until the proper depth is reached.

Both the kneewall and the attic are now properly insulated.

Skylight framing is particularly challenging as it’s often done without considering air sealing or insulation. On the left, the framer used 2x4s, which will not allow for adequate insulation levels. On the right, using 2x6s turned on edge allows for full depth of insulation to be installed. However, the insulation quality isn’t acceptable because of the compression and voids that are present.

Be sure to create an air barrier on the attic side with a durable, rigid material.

Install top and bottom plates.

Air seal and block between conditioned and unconditioned spaces.

Completely fill the space with insulation, and install sheet rock on the interior to complete the six-sided assembly.

Conditioned rooms above garages can pose comfort, health and safety issues if the transition between the garage and the conditioned room aren’t properly sealed and insulated. Floor assemblies between a garage and a living space need to be six-sided assemblies, too.

When second-story floor joists cross over a wall between the garage and a conditioned space, the space between the joists needs to be blocked and sealed. Completely seal all other penetrations in the garage-to-house wall.

Another common thermal envelope problem in homes occurs at dropped ceilings or soffits. They’re often built early in the construction process and without an air barrier between the top of the soffit and against the exterior wall.

A simple solution for a complete air barrier at dropped ceilings or soffits is to install a rigid air barrier above the soffit and along the exterior wall before it’s fully framed.

Thermal bridging is created when materials that are poor thermal insulators (with low R-Values) come into contact, allowing heat to flow through "bridges" and compromising the comfort and efficiency of the home.

For insulated ceilings with attic space above, Grade I insulation ≥ R-21 needs to extend to the inside face of the exterior wall below.

Penetrations to unconditioned space need to be fully sealed with solid blocking or flashing as needed and gaps sealed with caulk or foam. Penetrations in framing are often cut after air sealing and insulation are complete. These holes can allow excessive air leakage if they’re openings to unconditioned space. Ensure subcontractors are responsible for sealing these areas.

Recessed lighting can cause excessive air leakage because the lights can get very hot and create a natural draft pulling large amounts of air through them.

Use Insulation Contact Air-Tight, ICAT, approved recessed lighting fixtures adjacent to unconditioned space. If in an insulated ceiling without attic above, insulate the exterior surface of the fixture to minimize condensation potential.

Check for:

• An airtight wire connection from the junction box

• Full depth attic insulation over the fixture

• And air sealing at the gap between drywall and housing

Seal drywall to top plate at all unconditioned attic and wall interfaces using caulk, foam, drywall adhesive, or equivalent material. Do not use construction adhesives. Either apply sealant directly between drywall and top plate or to the seam between the two from the attic above or place foam gasket between drywall and top plate.

An effective and inexpensive method is to staple sill sealer directly to the top plate before drywall is installed.

Equip attic access panels and drop-down stairs with a durable, insulated cover that is gasketed (i.e., not caulked) to produce a continuous air seal when the occupant is not accessing the attic.

Cover the access panels or drop-down stairs with insulation to match the ceiling level and have rigid material around the opening to act as a dam to secure attic insulation.

The goal is to construct a home with a continuous air barrier throughout the building envelope that is in full contact with the insulation. Uncontrolled air leakage can cause discomfort for occupants and increased heating and cooling costs.

By improving the thermal envelope, the homes you build will be more energy efficient, durable, comfortable and safe.

Air sealing can be measured by performing whole-home infiltration testing using a Blower Door.

Many scores and certifications require Blower Door testing and qualifying air change per hour scores. Depending on your area, local or state code may also require testing using a Blower Door.

A Combustion Appliance Zone, commonly referred to as a CAZ, is any zone in a home containing a combustion appliance such as a fuel-fired water heater, boiler or furnace. CAZ testing is necessary for all homes that use combustion appliances for primary space and water heating.

Sealed combustion systems, with supply and exhaust combustion air fully vented to the outside, are exempt from this test.

CAZ testing measures the magnitude of air-handler induced pressure effects within the Combustion Appliance Zone. Air leakage at the air handler and in the distribution system can create negative pressure within the CAZ.

Negative pressure in an area with a combustion appliance can cause backdrafting of combustion gases, flame rollout and introduce moisture and other pollutants into the air that occupants breathe.

Complete a CAZ test to measure depressurization. If the results of the CAZ test indicate a potential problem, a licensed HVAC technician can correct any venting errors, distribution leaks or room-to-room pressure imbalances. CAZ testing is critical to ensuring that combustion appliances are installed and vented properly.

When poorly vented, moisture and gases in combustion appliance exhaust can enter the home and building assemblies. These potentially fatal gases can cause illness and death, while high moisture levels can cause building failure.

Heating systems that don’t need ducts can be used to avoid energy losses and duct installation expenses. Unvented combustion heating appliances are not permitted.

Small homes with open floor plans can be comfortably heated with an approved gas fireplace, unit heater or hydronic system.

Electric resistance wall heaters can be placed in bedrooms and bathrooms for supplemental spot heating.

Gas fireplaces and gas-unit heaters used for primary space heating need to be either sealed combustion or direct vented, located in the main living area and controlled by a programmable thermostat.

A list of eligible gas fireplace models for use as primary heating is available on the Energy Trust website.

Heat pumps perform best when properly sized, installed and programmed. To ensure optimal performance, follow commissioning specifications for sizing, controls, airflow and refrigerant charge. Ductless heat pumps are exempt from commissioning.

Heat pump water heaters are high-efficiency alternatives to standard storage tank water heaters. A list of heat pump water heaters is available on the Northwest Energy Efficiency Alliance's Northern Climate Qualified Heat Pump Water Heater website.

A tightly constructed home with reliable whole-house mechanical ventilation will have improved comfort and indoor air quality. Mechanical ventilation can be provided using exhaust systems, supply systems or heat or energy recovery systems.

Whole-house supply systems are typically used in conjunction with a ducted HVAC system. Outdoor air is drawn in through the cold air return, conditioned and distributed throughout the house. An electronically operated mechanical damper controls when outdoor air is able to enter the system. Optionally, the control can also activate an exhaust fan inside the house.

Don’t introduce fresh air from areas of poor air quality, such as roof vents, driveways, attics and crawl spaces or locations near exhaust fans.

Heat or Energy Recovery Ventilation systems are used to temper incoming fresh air. These systems are particularly beneficial in colder climates and in very tight homes as they can provide balanced ventilation and minimize pressure imbalances.

Heat Recovery Ventilation systems, or HRVs, transfer heat between incoming and outgoing air. The heat exchange core is frequently made of multiple plates of aluminum or polypropylene.

Energy Recovery Ventilation systems, or ERVs, transfer both heat and water vapor. Water vapor is generally transferred by a rotating wheel with desiccant material or permeable plates.

In addition to the whole-house mechanical ventilation strategy, homes may need spot ventilation. For example, spot ventilation in baths should be vented outside through a dedicated roof vent. Keep exhaust duct runs short, free of sharp turns, and insulated to reduce the likelihood of condensation.

Our support team is here to help you succeed throughout the building process.

Please navigate to the Resources tab on the left hand side of the player window to view additional online resources about this training.

For more information, visit our website or call the New Homes Trade Ally hotline. Thank you for joining us.

Click the specific equipment of your choice to begin.

Once complete, you can always return to review the content of any training segment at any time.